After more than 10 days of breeding, the sac wall of the parent pigeon gradually changes, and when the hatchling emerges, it can produce a nutrient-rich substance known as pigeon milk. This milk is high in fat, lecithin, protein, auxins, and vitamins, making it highly nutritious for the young. Both the parent and the fledgling feed each other by mouth.
Within six hours of hatching, if the young pigeon’s crop does not show any "gas" or food, there may be an issue. Two possible causes should be checked: either the parent pigeon isn’t feeding, or the young one isn’t getting enough. If the parent isn’t feeding, gently guide the young’s beak into the parent’s mouth several times to encourage feeding. If this doesn’t work, the parent might be unwell, and it should be isolated for observation or treatment. In such cases, another pair of parent pigeons from the same brooding period can be used to feed the young. If the parent is unhealthy and refuses to eat, the young pigeon will likely die. Experienced breeders often notice that the parent repeatedly pecks at the young pigeon’s beak after hatching, trying to stimulate it to eat.
As the young pigeon grows, the type of food provided by the parent changes. For the first 1 to 4 days, the milk is very dilute. By day 5 to 9, it becomes thicker. Starting on day 9, the parent begins to introduce partially digested food mixed with digestive juices. The young pigeon extends its beak into the parent’s mouth to receive this mixture. At this stage, the diet of the parent should mainly consist of peas, with small amounts of brown rice, hemp seeds, sorghum, salt soil, and green feed added. If one parent dies, manual feeding is necessary.
By around day 13, the young pigeon starts eating whole grains, which can lead to indigestion and cause food buildup in the crop, potentially leading to crop inflammation. If this happens, the young should be fed with a lactating mother or a substitute, such as a quarter of a mother’s feed, to help digestion.
The young pigeons grow quickly and, by day 20, are nearly the size of their parents, sometimes even heavier. They rarely leave the nest basin unless something is wrong. If they do, it could mean they are growing up, exploring the world, feeling uneasy, or experiencing discomfort. When this occurs, protect them from falling or being injured. Return them to the nest if possible. If they keep leaving, it may indicate illness, and immediate treatment is needed. Treatment includes giving them half a morpholine tablet (virus spirit), half terramycin, and half oryzanol once daily for three days.
At this stage, also monitor for aggressive behavior among adult pigeons or fights over nesting areas. Ensure proper nesting setups are available, especially since parent pigeons start incubating eggs again at around 16 to 17 days. Prepare new nests so that the parents can lay eggs quietly. If the parents are strong, they can continue feeding while incubating. If they are overfed, remove the eggs and let other pigeons hatch them. Maintain a calm environment to support healthy growth until the next batch of young pigeons is ready to hatch. At this point, the original parents are no longer fed and are encouraged to leave the nest, allowing the young to become independent.
To prepare pigeons for market, fattening typically begins 5 to 7 days before sale. Select pigeons that are large, weigh over 450 grams, are healthy, and have no disabilities. Pigeons older than 30 days or with dark red skin are not suitable for fattening. During the fattening phase, feed them manually or via mechanical feeders. The food is usually made into pellets or soaked corn, beans, and brown rice, then poured directly into the crop using a syringe or machine.
A bucket feeder is a simple and effective tool. It consists of a funnel or bucket connected to a 1-meter rubber hose, mounted on a sliding hook. The outlet can be clamped to control the flow. This type of feeder is ideal for larger pigeon farms due to its durability and capacity.
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