Bud grafting is a widely practiced technique in fruit tree cultivation. It can be performed during spring, summer, and autumn, but it is most effective when carried out in the fall. With proper care, the survival rate of grafted buds can exceed 90%, making it a reliable method for propagating fruit trees.
One of the key factors in successful bud grafting is timing. The best time to perform this technique is when the buds are fully developed but not yet mature. If the buds are taken too early, they may not have enough energy reserves to survive, and the rootstock might still be in a vigorous growth phase, which can lead to poor nutrient allocation. On the other hand, if the buds are taken too late, they may become brittle and difficult to handle, reducing the chances of successful healing. In regions like the Yangtze River basin and southern areas, September is generally considered ideal for budding.
When selecting buds, it's important to choose those from the middle section of the branch, as the upper and lower buds may not be as viable. The size of the bud should also be appropriate—too small and there won’t be enough contact area with the rootstock, while too large may cause folding when inserted, leading to poor union. When cutting the buds, take care to protect the bud shield or include a small portion of the xylem. Buds are typically cut into shield shapes or ring blocks, with lengths ranging from 1.5 to 2 cm. The size of the ring block should match the rootstock for better compatibility.
The grafting technique itself involves preparing the rootstock first, then carefully cutting and inserting the bud. A "T"-shaped incision is made about 3 to 5 cm above the ground, ensuring it reaches the xylem without damaging the bark. The bark is gently peeled back, and the bud with its petiole is quickly placed inside. It is then secured with a plastic band that is approximately 1 cm wide. Only the bud and petiole should be visible, and the band should extend 1 to 1.5 cm above and below the incision. After grafting, the soil around the base should be mounded up to about 10 cm high. Ten to fifteen days later, check the graft site. If the bud appears fresh and light green, and the petiole feels soft and falls off easily, it has successfully taken. Otherwise, re-graft on the opposite side of the rootstock.
Proper management of the rootstock is essential after grafting. Once the new shoots grow to about 8 to 10 cm, they should be tied to a support near the base. When they reach 20 to 25 cm, they should be tied again at the top. This helps them grow straight and strong. Once the grafts lignify, the supports can be removed, and the seedlings can continue growing in the field until they are ready for transplanting. Regular pruning during the summer helps control the growth of unwanted branches from the rootstock, ensuring the grafted bud receives adequate nutrients.
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