Bud grafting is a widely used technique in fruit tree cultivation. It can be performed during spring, summer, and autumn, but it is most effective when carried out in the fall. With proper execution, the survival rate of grafted buds can exceed 90%, making it a reliable method for propagating fruit trees.
One key factor in successful bud grafting is timing. The best time to perform budding is when the buds are fully developed. If buds are taken too early, they may not have enough stored nutrients, and the rootstock might still be in its active growth phase, which can lead to poor survival rates and potential frost damage after the buds sprout. On the other hand, if the buds are taken too late, they may become dry and difficult to peel, leading to poor healing and low survival. In regions like the Yangtze River basin and areas further south, September is typically the ideal month for budding.
When selecting buds, it's important to choose those from the middle section of the branch, as these are usually the healthiest and most vigorous. Avoid using upper or lower buds, as they may not develop well. The size of the bud should also be appropriate—too small and there won’t be enough contact area with the rootstock, while too large may cause the bud to fold during insertion, reducing the chances of successful grafting. When cutting the bud, take care to preserve the bud pad or include a small portion of the xylem. Buds are commonly cut into shield shapes or ring blocks, typically around 1.5 to 2 cm in length. The size of the ring block should be adjusted based on the thickness of the rootstock and the size of the bud being used.
The grafting technique itself is crucial. Start by preparing the rootstock, then carefully cut the bud and insert it into the prepared incision. To prevent the bud from drying out, work quickly once the bud is removed. A common method is the "T" shape graft: make a T-shaped cut about 3 to 5 cm above the ground, ensuring the cut reaches the xylem but doesn’t remove too much bark. Then, carefully lift the bark and insert the shield-shaped bud with its petiole attached. Secure the graft with a 1 cm wide plastic band, leaving only the bud and petiole exposed. The band should extend about 1 to 1.5 cm above and below the incision. After grafting, mound soil up to 10 cm around the base. About 10 to 15 days later, check the graft site. If the bud looks fresh and light green, and the petiole is loose or has fallen, it’s a sign that the graft was successful. If not, re-graft on the back of the rootstock.
After successful budding, proper management of the rootstock is essential. In the following spring, cut the rootstock 18 to 20 cm above the graft union and remove the binding tape. During the summer, prune the rootstock several times to remove any unwanted shoots. Once the grafted shoots reach 8 to 10 cm in length, tie them to a support near the base. When they grow to 20 to 25 cm, secure them again at the top. Continue this process until the graft has fully lignified. At that point, remove the support and keep the grafted plant in the field to continue growing into a strong, healthy seedling.
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