The silver ring snake, also known as the white snake or flower handkerchief, belongs to the cobra genus and is a highly valued species in traditional Chinese medicine. Its entire body is considered valuable for medicinal use, making it an important species for both conservation and commercial breeding. Below are key techniques for its artificial farming.
**(1) Morphological Characteristics and Living Habits**
The silver ring snake has an elliptical head and can grow up to 0.6–1.2 meters in length. It features distinctive white and black stripes on its back, with a milky white underbelly, upper lip, and neck. The tail is slender and agile. These snakes are commonly found in hilly areas, near rivers, or along mountainous regions, often appearing close to human settlements. They are nocturnal and typically hunt for yellow locusts, loaches, frogs, or even other snakes on wet roads or between rocks near water sources. They are oviparous, laying 4–18 eggs per clutch. Despite having a small venom gland, they are highly toxic. Their temperament is generally calm, and they move slowly, usually only biting if provoked.
**(2) Artificial Breeding Techniques**
Setting up a snake farm requires careful planning. The location should be secluded, elevated, and near a water source. A 2-meter-high wall made of concrete is essential to prevent escape. The foundation should be 0.5–0.8 meters deep, and the inner walls must be smooth and coated with cement—avoiding white paint to reduce sunlight reflection. The farm should be oriented north-south to protect against cold northern winds. The ground should have a slight slope for proper drainage during heavy rain. Two levels of gates are necessary: one inside and one outside. Within the farm, there should be designated areas such as snake nests, pools, gutters, feeding zones, breeding rooms, and open spaces. Planting shrubs and arranging stones can provide shade and help regulate temperature.
**Snake Nest Construction**
The nest should be located on high ground opposite the entrance. The floor inside the nest should be about 10 cm higher than the outside. The base is constructed using bricks or cement, followed by a 15 cm high and 20 cm long brick wall. The grid should be tightly connected, with movable planks for observation and maintenance. A central passage of about 1 meter wide should be left. The nest itself is built with 20 cm thick bricks, 1.2 meters high, and covered with 10 cm thick cement boards. Finally, a 1-meter layer of soil is added. The sides are filled with 0.5 meters of soil to form a bag-like structure. The nest measures 1.2 meters in height, 5 meters in width, and 6 meters in depth. A door at the exit allows snakes to enter and exit freely, while channels on either side connect to the feeding area, where snakes can drink, bathe, and feed.
**Pool Setup**
A pool should be placed beside the nest, slightly elevated above the ditch. It should cover about 5 square meters and be 40 cm deep. To keep the water cool year-round, a small shrub or pergola can be used. A gate connects the pool to the ditch, which is opened at night to allow water flow into the feeding area. Aquatic plants and frogs can be introduced to support the ecosystem.
**Feeding Area**
The feeding pool should be around 5 square meters, shaded with a pergola. A small black light is placed underneath to attract insects for the snakes. The water level should remain at 10 cm throughout the year, with metal sieves at the bottom to filter and replace the water. Fresh food is provided daily before the snakes emerge from their nests. Young snakes weighing around 500 grams are fed in a 10:1 ratio of females to males. Snakes do not overeat, consuming about 1–2 kg annually, mainly feeding on small fish, frogs, and loaches. Live prey is essential, and any dead animals in the pool must be removed promptly. During May and November, when snakes need to build up energy for reproduction and hibernation, feeding should be increased significantly.
**Egg Incubation**
Silver ring snakes lay eggs between late June and early August, peaking in July. When females show signs of laying eggs, they should be moved to a separate breeding room. After egg-laying, the mother snakes are returned to the nests, and the eggs are collected for artificial incubation. The process involves cleaning a large container, filling it with semi-moist sand or slush, and placing the eggs in layers. A thin layer of moist straw covers the eggs, and they are turned once daily. The ideal incubation temperature is 20–27°C with 50–70% humidity, and the incubation period lasts about 42 days.
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