Grafting technology differs significantly from traditional methods in several key aspects. First, the grafting process now eliminates the use of petioles, allowing for a tighter and more airtight union, which greatly improves the survival rate. Second, instead of using leaf buds, winter buds are selected for grafting. These winter buds are stronger, leading to more vigorous and mature growth. Third, the method has evolved from using two different thicknesses of plastic bands: thicker ones for the rootstock to ensure a tight wrap, and thinner ones for the scion to prevent water loss and promote successful healing.
The specific grafting process begins with selecting healthy rootstocks. For instance, "Jiufeng" grape seedlings that are one or two years old are preferred, as they have strong roots and no signs of disease. The planting area should be well-prepared with proper spacing (50–60 cm between rows and 30–40 cm between plants). After planting, watering is essential, and the lower part of each seedling should be cut back to leave two full buds. In colder regions, seedlings are often covered with plastic tunnels to speed up growth. Once sprouted, only one strong shoot is left per plant, while weaker shoots and axillary buds are removed. When the plant has 7–8 leaves, the tip is cut to encourage thick, sturdy growth.
For the scion, it's important to select strong, disease-free branches from a sunny and well-ventilated area. Before grafting, any fruit strings on the scion should be removed about 20–30 days in advance to promote better growth. Grafting is best done after 9 AM and before 6 PM on sunny days, avoiding rainy or dewy conditions. The rootstock and scion should be similar in thickness and semi-lignified. Scions should be harvested as close as possible, with leaves removed immediately and wrapped in a damp cloth to retain moisture. If transported over long distances, they can be stored in a thermos with ice to maintain freshness.
When preparing the rootstock, leave 3–4 leaves and make a flat cut 10–12 cm above the ground. The diameter should be at least 1 cm, and a vertical incision of 3 cm is made in the center to insert the scion. The cut surface should face north-south to help the scion grow towards the sun. For the scion, select a branch with a diameter of 0.8–1 cm, semi-lignified, and cut just below the tip. Remove all petioles except for one bud, leaving 1 cm above and 4 cm below the bud. Make two 2.5–3 cm slits on either side of the bud to form a wedge shape.
During grafting, the scion is inserted into the rootstock’s incision without submerging it or using hormones. The scion’s south side should align with the rootstock’s shoot side, and the top of the cut should expose about 0.3 cm of the rootstock to aid in healing. Secure the graft with two layers of plastic ties: a thick one for the rootstock and a thin one for the scion, ensuring no air leaks and only the bud is exposed.
After grafting, water the plants immediately and keep the soil moist. Apply balanced N, P, K fertilizers and remove weeds regularly. Within 7–10 days, new shoots will appear. When the third leaf emerges, remove flower spikes to direct energy toward growth. Strong seedlings may produce a second spike, which should also be removed. When the seedlings reach 20–25 cm, tie them to prevent wind damage. Regularly remove axillary buds on the rootstock. When the plant has 7–8 leaves, pinch the tip to encourage branching. Continue this process until the desired growth is achieved.
Monitor for pests and diseases, and spray 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate every 20 days for 2–3 times. Do not remove the plastic banding too early; wait until autumn or the following spring. This careful approach ensures a high success rate and healthy grafted plants.
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